After I journey to the town of Kyoto, lower than an hour’s prepare experience from Nara-machi, to go to the flagship retailer of the Hiroshima-based brush firm Hakuhodo, I’m drawn into the world of beautiful magnificence brushes. The shop is a contemporary white field, with glowing show instances and a skylight paying homage to a James Turrell set up, in distinction to the staid Ippodo tearoom throughout the road. In Kyoto, brush making has all however disappeared — the remaining three fude shokunin are too few to benefit dento kogei designation — however the metropolis is thought for its conventional arts and excessive tradition.
Hakuhodo makes use of the phrase “fude” liberally to explain its a whole lot of make-up applicators, which appear to be extremely specialised variations of cosmetics brushes offered in shops around the globe. They’re priced in accordance with their supplies, and vary from roughly $15 to a number of hundred. One powder brush, enclosed in a plexiglass case on the wall, has Hi there Kitty painted in lacquer and gold mud on its deal with (and prices roughly $800). I select a tiny fan brush for eradicating mascara clumps (after I attempt it later with Japanese Dejavu Fiberwig mascara, it makes me appear to be I’m carrying false lashes), and a double-sided brush-comb for eyebrow grooming that has a 24 Okay gold ferule attaching it to a pleasantly weighty deal with lacquered the identical shade of vermilion as a shrine gate.
A cultured saleswoman exhibits me how a preferred eye shadow brush works in a different way relying on the hair it’s created from. Kolinsky (a type of weasel hair banned within the U.S.) applies gentle, mild colour, and can be utilized for concealer and gel shadows. Horse applies the shadow extra thickly, constructing it up sooner. And goat is nice at depositing glitter and vivid colour. She explains that tufts of artificial hair are effectively suited to making use of basis rapidly and mixing liquid colour, however pure hair picks up extra powder. An extended, skinny brush for drawing on swoops of eyeliner seems to be just like the menso fude in Tanaka’s store, designed for portray the face on a doll; its gentle, versatile hairs take skilled ability to manage, however could make a wonderful line of unparalleled magnificence.
Most of Hakuhodo’s brushes are, the truth is, yofude, or Western-style brushes distinguished by a metallic ferule holding the bristles in place. Kumano, the town in Hiroshima the place they’re manufactured, first made its identify with paintbrushes — and now cosmetics brushes. Hiroshima farmers who labored in Nara throughout the low season used to convey dwelling fude to promote for additional revenue, and within the early Nineteenth century, the Kumano area sponsored Nara artisans to show these farmers the craft of brush making. Now, 80 p.c of Japan’s brush manufacturing is finished in Kumano. The method is split into discrete duties, every assigned to a special artisan, so it’s simpler to outsource to a machine or abroad manufacturing unit.
Tanaka says doing each step herself, solely by hand, is inefficient; but it surely makes you care about the entire course of. She’s devoted to persevering with the custom of Nara fude, however her good friend inspired her so as to add make-up brushes to her repertoire. A small glass case in her store shows lip brushes like those depicted in Nineteenth-century ukioy-e work of courtesans, and spherical powder puffs made of soppy pink-colored goat hair set atop a stout cypress deal with that appear to be these of Kumano brushes. These she calls “burashi,” a Japanized pronunciation of “brush,” to differentiate them from fude. (I purchase an itachi lip brush with a deal with product of bamboo and water buffalo horn, but it surely’s so lovely I’m afraid to make use of it.)
As passionate as she is about Nara fude, Tanaka tells me she would discourage nearly any younger individual from taking up the a long time of research, soiled, painstaking labor and uncertainty that include a profession making brushes. She earns sufficient to maintain her store open, but it surely was her husband’s salaryman job that supported their household. I ask why she’s caught with all of it these years. She replies, “As a result of it’s nonetheless enjoyable and attention-grabbing.” In her coronary heart, she says, she needs her daughter (now a mom, too) might discover the identical pleasure in making fude.